Sunday morning.  10am.

The first 10 minutes of every Sunday service here is given to pray for those who have died as a result of the HIV virus.  The pulpit is draped in the red HIV logo – not because of the 10 minutes, but as a normal part of Sunday worship.  A clear reminder that I am in different territory.   And then comes Bambalela – like I have not heard it sung before.  It comes like a groan from somewhere deep within. One or two women start to cry; a few people shout out; and the song, deep, slow, full of harmonies and incredibly moving. Not like our ‘happy,’ faster, rhythmic version. 

Bambalela is immediately followed by the reading of a newspaper article about the death of another victim, and the tragic circumstances of the children left behind. The woman who reads it ends the story lets out a loud sigh… and begins to weep…… 

Anti Retroviral Drugs are now free here, the director of services tells me later.  “But we in South Africa did not take HIV seriously when it first came out.  Now the victims are in the last stage of the disease, too late for the drugs to help.”  HIV orphans are a big problem.   At least they have a well resourced centre here where they can come, get some help and have some solidarity. In the centre here in Gugulethu, they are not so much ostracised from the community. Other churches, I was told, have difficulty welcoming those who are HIV +.